Chapter 02
Latest stories
Recent clippings from the notebook. Short itineraries, hotels with character and routes where the timings are actually measured.
Transport6 min27 July 2026
Marrakech to Fes, Morocco
Crossing the Atlas by vintage train
A complete guide to planning the Maghreb's most romantic rail journey, with timetables and practical tips.
- —First-class vs. second-class: what you actually get
- —How to book seats without a Moroccan card
- —The three window sections worth staying awake for
- Best time
- March–May · October
- Budget
- From €38 one way
Read the story →Tours7 min19 July 2026
Seville, Spain
The orange trail: a walk through Seville
A sensory route through the city's hidden courtyards and historic tabernas, with carefully paced stops.
- —A 4.2 km loop measured door to door
- —Six tabernas, ordered by closing time
- —Which courtyards open to the public and when
- Best time
- March–April · November
- Budget
- Free walk · €35 with tastings
Read the story →Hotels9 min11 July 2026
Kyoto & Kansai, Japan
Ryokans worth the trip to Japan
Private onsen, kaiseki dinners and centuries-old hospitality: where to sleep to really understand the country.
- —Rooms with private onsen, ranked by value
- —Kaiseki etiquette in five minutes
- —How far in advance to book each house
- Best time
- April · November
- Budget
- From €260 a night
Read the story →Itineraries6 min4 July 2026
Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon in 48 hours, on foot
A two-day plan across Alfama, Chiado and Belém with real walking times, tram alternatives and where to break for coffee.
- —Miradouros in the right order for the light
- —When tram 28 is worth it and when it is not
- —Two pastelarias locals still queue for
- Best time
- April–June · September
- Budget
- From €120 a night
Read the story →Itineraries10 min26 June 2026
Cyclades, Greece
Island hopping the Cyclades slowly
Seven days between Naxos, Paros and Milos built around actual ferry schedules rather than wishful thinking.
- —Ferry legs that leave you a full day on each island
- —Which islands need a rental car
- —Beaches that stay calm with the meltemi wind
- Best time
- June · September
- Budget
- From €95 a night
Read the story →