Los Angeles

April to June and September to November are warm and clear. July and August are hot inland and grey on the coast in the morning (the marine layer). January is cool but pleasant. In short: Late April to June and September to mid-October are the sweet spot for Los Angeles: warm days, manageable crowds and mid-season prices. July and August bring the heat, the peak prices and the queues — book everything ahead or start at 08:00. November to March is the cheapest and emptiest, with shorter opening hours and some seasonal closures.

Start with Hollywood Walk of Fame and TCL Chinese Theatre, Griffith Observatory and the sign hike, The Getty Center, Santa Monica Pier and Venice Beach and Universal Studios Hollywood. Los Angeles is inland, so build the plan around heritage, food and landscape. Three days — the centre on foot, the flagship sight plus market, one booked excursion into California. Five days — add a second excursion and a slow day for museums, food and a local festival if the dates line up. Seven days — add two longer trips further into California and a rest day. Group each day by walking distance and never cross Los Angeles twice in one day.

The United States requires either an ESTA under the Visa Waiver Programme — applied for online at least 72 hours before departure, valid two years, for EU, UK, Australian, Japanese and Chilean passports among others — or a B1/B2 visa with an embassy interview for everyone else. Your passport must be machine-readable and valid for the stay, and travellers who have visited certain countries lose ESTA eligibility. No vaccinations are required. Requirements change: confirm against your own government's travel advice and the official immigration site before you book.

Los Angeles is safe for visitors by the standards of United States (California — Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Diego, Anaheim and Palm Springs): violent crime is rare and the real risk is opportunistic — pickpocketing on crowded transport, at photo spots and in busy markets, plus unmetered taxis and card machines pre-set to a higher amount or your home currency. Avoid deserted station areas and unlit outskirts late at night, use the official taxi rank or a ride-hailing app after dark, keep your bag in front of you in queues, photograph your passport, and check your own foreign-office travel advice page before departure. Travel insurance with medical cover is worth it.

A car is unavoidable outside the Metro rail lines, which connect Downtown, Hollywood and Santa Monica. Parking is expensive in Hollywood and Santa Monica; valet is standard at restaurants. Avoid the 405 and the 101 at rush hour, which is most hours. In United States (California — Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Diego, Anaheim and Palm Springs), a car is essential in Los Angeles, San Diego and between cities; San Francisco is the exception — BART from SFO and Muni cover the city. The Pacific Coast Highway connects SF to LA in 10 hours; take two. Anaheim is walkable from the Disney resort with the ART shuttle For accommodation, stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre of Los Angeles for a first visit: you walk to the sights and save two taxis a day. The edge of the old town is the value option — a few minutes further out, noticeably cheaper and quieter at night. Ask for a room over a courtyard rather than a bar street.

Prioritise Hollywood Walk of Fame and TCL Chinese Theatre, Griffith Observatory and the sign hike, The Getty Center, Santa Monica Pier and Venice Beach and Universal Studios Hollywood. What you can skip without regret: the restaurants with photo menus and touts on the main square, any hop-on bus if the centre is walkable, and paid "panoramic" viewpoints when a free one gives the same picture. Los Angeles is inland, so plan around heritage, food and landscape rather than beaches.

Stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre of Los Angeles: you walk to the main sights, restaurants stay open late nearby, and you avoid paying for taxis twice a day. Pick the edge of the old town if you want quiet at night, and check the room faces a courtyard rather than a bar street.

A car is unavoidable outside the Metro rail lines, which connect Downtown, Hollywood and Santa Monica. Parking is expensive in Hollywood and Santa Monica; valet is standard at restaurants. Avoid the 405 and the 101 at rush hour, which is most hours. As a rule: take the scheduled bus or train for the cheapest ride, an official taxi rank or a ride-hailing app when you land late or carry luggage, and never accept a lift from someone approaching you inside the terminal.

3 full days is the honest answer for Los Angeles: one for the centre on foot, one for its museums and food, and one for a trip into California. Two days works if you only want the highlights; a fourth day is worth it if you want a slow morning and a longer excursion.

Budget $220–380 per person per day mid-range: $160–280 room, $70 food, $60–150 for a theme-park, studio tour or Alcatraz ferry, plus a hire car in LA and SD. Accommodation moves the total most: shoulder season in Los Angeles can be half the July price for the same room. Payment runs on the US dollar (contactless cards and phone wallets work everywhere; carry a few dollars for tips and metered parking).

Day 1 — the historic core of Los Angeles on foot, clockwise from the main square, with lunch where you end up rather than walking back. Day 2 — the single biggest sight first thing, then the market and the residential streets around it, and a viewpoint at sunset. Day 3 — one excursion into California booked in advance, back for a late dinner. Group everything by walking distance and never cross Los Angeles twice in a day.

Anything with timed entry or a small group sells out first: the flagship monument or museum of Los Angeles, guided tours with fewer than fifteen places, boat and wine experiences in summer, and dinner at well-reviewed restaurants on Friday and Saturday. Book those two to four weeks ahead in high season; everything else can wait until you arrive.

The classics are the same everywhere: unmetered taxis quoting a flat fare, "free" bracelets or flowers, distraction pickpocketing on crowded transport and at photo spots, card machines handed over pre-set to a higher amount or to your home currency, and restaurants without printed prices. Check the meter, always pay in local currency, and keep your bag in front of you in queues.

In United States (California — Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Diego, Anaheim and Palm Springs), 18–20% in restaurants, $1–2 a drink at the bar, 15–20% for taxis and rideshare, $2 a bag for valet, $5 a day housekeeping. Breakfast 07:00–10:00, lunch 11:30–14:00, dinner 18:00–22:00; LA eats late, San Francisco brunches until 15:00 at weekends, and theme-park restaurants take reservations 60 days out. Cover shoulders and knees inside churches, greet staff before ordering, keep your voice down in residential streets at night, and expect shops in smaller towns around Los Angeles to close in the early afternoon.

Install Citymapper for transit, OpenTable and Resy for tables, the Disneyland and Universal apps for park tickets and queues, BART and Muni apps for San Francisco, Uber and Lyft everywhere. Download an offline map of Los Angeles before you land, and add your transport card or pass to your phone wallet if the local operator supports it.

Walk two or three streets off the main square or monument in Los Angeles and look for a short handwritten menu, a full room of local voices, and prices displayed at the door. A daily menu chalked up at lunchtime is the strongest signal; a laminated menu in five languages with a host outside is the strongest warning.

Eat what California grows and lands: the signature rice, stew or grill of the region, whatever the market is selling that week, and the local wine or vermouth by the glass. The most honest versions are in the family-run place near the market of Los Angeles, at lunch, when the daily menu is on.

Breakfast 07:00–10:00, lunch 11:30–14:00, dinner 18:00–22:00; LA eats late, San Francisco brunches until 15:00 at weekends, and theme-park restaurants take reservations 60 days out. Book dinner for anything popular, ask for the bill (it won't arrive unprompted), and split payment is usually fine by card. 18–20% in restaurants, $1–2 a drink at the bar, 15–20% for taxis and rideshare, $2 a bag for valet, $5 a day housekeeping.

Do a single loop of the historic centre of Los Angeles, stop at its one defining sight, then eat where locals eat near the market. That gives you the character of the place in three or four hours without a ticket queue eating the whole visit.

Most of what makes Los Angeles memorable costs nothing: walking the historic centre and its squares, the market hall, the outside of Hollywood Walk of Fame and TCL Chinese Theatre, the churches that ask only for a donation, the parks and gardens, and the viewpoint that looks back over the roofs. Add a stretch of the old walls, the riverside or greenway path, and the ridge road above town at sunset. Municipal museums in United States (California — Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Diego, Anaheim and Palm Springs) usually have one free afternoon or evening a week, and many cathedrals are free outside visiting hours if you go to pray rather than to tour — check the times at the door on your first morning.

Free: the highest point of the old town, the bell tower terrace when it's open, and the bridge or promenade that looks back at Los Angeles's skyline. Paid: a rooftop bar or tower ticket — worth it only if you arrive forty minutes before sunset to get the rail. Inland, the ridge or castle road above town gives the widest light.

a car is essential in Los Angeles, San Diego and between cities; San Francisco is the exception — BART from SFO and Muni cover the city. The Pacific Coast Highway connects SF to LA in 10 hours; take two. Anaheim is walkable from the Disney resort with the ART shuttle If your 3-day plan is mostly on foot in Los Angeles with one excursion, buy singles or a multi-journey card and skip the tourist pass; if you're crossing the city several times a day or using it with museum entry included, a 48 h pass pays for itself.

Los Angeles is safe by European standards; the real risks are opportunistic. Avoid empty industrial or station peripheries after midnight, unlit parks, and packed nightlife streets where phones disappear. Walk lit main streets, use a licensed taxi or ride-hailing app late at night, and share your route if you're travelling solo.

Buy something made nearby: a Disneyland ear hat from the park, a strand of pearls from Fisherman's Wharf, a Hollywood Walk of Fame star photo, a Napa wine from the tasting room, and a mid-century modern print from Palm Springs. The weekly market in Los Angeles and a workshop with the maker on site beat any airport shop, and you're supporting the local trade rather than an importer.

Keep two indoor blocks in reserve: the main museum or cathedral of Los Angeles, a market hall with food stalls, a long lunch, or a thermal bath or wine cellar in California. In extreme heat, invert the day — sights before 11:00, indoors from 14:00 to 18:00, and the evening back outside. April to June and September to November are warm and clear. July and August are hot inland and grey on the coast in the morning (the marine layer). January is cool but pleasant.

Locals go where there's no ticket desk: the residential lanes just outside the walls of Los Angeles early in the morning, the neighbourhood bar with four tables and one dish, the cemetery or convent garden that nobody photographs, and the hill road out of town at dusk. Ask the person serving you coffee where they eat on Sunday — in California that question opens more doors than any list.