Miami

December to April is dry, warm and busy. June to September is hot, humid and stormy after 15.00, and hurricane season peaks in September. In short: Late April to June and September to mid-October are the sweet spot for Miami: warm days, manageable crowds and mid-season prices. July and August bring the heat, the peak prices and the queues — book everything ahead or start at 08:00. November to March is the cheapest and emptiest, with shorter opening hours and some seasonal closures.

Start with Art Deco District on Ocean Drive, Wynwood Walls, Little Havana and Calle Ocho, Vizcaya Museum and Gardens and Pérez Art Museum Miami. Keep one morning for the coast near Miami. Three days — the centre on foot, the flagship sight plus market, one booked excursion into Florida. Five days — add a second excursion and a slow day for museums, food and a local festival if the dates line up. Seven days — add two longer trips further into Florida and a rest day. Group each day by walking distance and never cross Miami twice in one day.

The United States requires either an ESTA under the Visa Waiver Programme — applied for online at least 72 hours before departure, valid two years, for EU, UK, Australian, Japanese and Chilean passports among others — or a B1/B2 visa with an embassy interview for everyone else. Your passport must be machine-readable and valid for the stay, and travellers who have visited certain countries lose ESTA eligibility. No vaccinations are required. Requirements change: confirm against your own government's travel advice and the official immigration site before you book.

Miami is safe for visitors by the standards of United States (Florida — Miami, the Keys, Tampa Bay, the Space Coast and the theme-park belt): violent crime is rare and the real risk is opportunistic — pickpocketing on crowded transport, at photo spots and in busy markets, plus unmetered taxis and card machines pre-set to a higher amount or your home currency. Avoid deserted station areas and unlit outskirts late at night, use the official taxi rank or a ride-hailing app after dark, keep your bag in front of you in queues, photograph your passport, and check your own foreign-office travel advice page before departure. Travel insurance with medical cover is worth it.

A hire car is useful for the Everglades and the Keys, but downtown, Brickell and the beach work with the free Metromover, the Miami Beach trolley and rideshare. Parking on South Beach is expensive and enforced hard. In United States (Florida — Miami, the Keys, Tampa Bay, the Space Coast and the theme-park belt), a hire car is essential outside Miami Beach and Key West; the toll roads all use SunPass. Brightline links Miami, Fort Lauderdale, West Palm Beach and Orlando in about three and a half hours, Tampa is 1 h 25 from Orlando on I-4, and Key West is 3 h 30 from Miami on the single-lane US-1 For accommodation, stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre of Miami for a first visit: you walk to the sights and save two taxis a day. The edge of the old town is the value option — a few minutes further out, noticeably cheaper and quieter at night. Ask for a room over a courtyard rather than a bar street.

Prioritise Art Deco District on Ocean Drive, Wynwood Walls, Little Havana and Calle Ocho, Vizcaya Museum and Gardens and Pérez Art Museum Miami. What you can skip without regret: the restaurants with photo menus and touts on the main square, any hop-on bus if the centre is walkable, and paid "panoramic" viewpoints when a free one gives the same picture. You also have coastline within reach of Miami, so keep one morning free for a beach or a coastal walk.

Stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre of Miami: you walk to the main sights, restaurants stay open late nearby, and you avoid paying for taxis twice a day. Pick the edge of the old town if you want quiet at night, and check the room faces a courtyard rather than a bar street.

A hire car is useful for the Everglades and the Keys, but downtown, Brickell and the beach work with the free Metromover, the Miami Beach trolley and rideshare. Parking on South Beach is expensive and enforced hard. As a rule: take the scheduled bus or train for the cheapest ride, an official taxi rank or a ride-hailing app when you land late or carry luggage, and never accept a lift from someone approaching you inside the terminal.

3 full days is the honest answer for Miami: one for the centre on foot, one for its museums and food, and one for a trip into Florida. Two days works if you only want the highlights; a fourth day is worth it if you want a slow morning and a longer excursion.

Budget $200–340 per person per day mid-range: $140–240 room, $60–90 food and drink, $50–120 for a theme-park or water-park ticket, plus hire car, fuel and tolls. Accommodation moves the total most: shoulder season in Miami can be half the July price for the same room. Payment runs on the US dollar (contactless cards and phone wallets work everywhere, including theme-park gates and toll roads via the rental transponder).

Day 1 — the historic core of Miami on foot, clockwise from the main square, with lunch where you end up rather than walking back. Day 2 — the single biggest sight first thing, then the market and the residential streets around it, and a viewpoint at sunset. Day 3 — one excursion into Florida booked in advance, back for a late dinner. Group everything by walking distance and never cross Miami twice in a day.

Anything with timed entry or a small group sells out first: the flagship monument or museum of Miami, guided tours with fewer than fifteen places, boat and wine experiences in summer, and dinner at well-reviewed restaurants on Friday and Saturday. Book those two to four weeks ahead in high season; everything else can wait until you arrive.

The classics are the same everywhere: unmetered taxis quoting a flat fare, "free" bracelets or flowers, distraction pickpocketing on crowded transport and at photo spots, card machines handed over pre-set to a higher amount or to your home currency, and restaurants without printed prices. Check the meter, always pay in local currency, and keep your bag in front of you in queues.

In United States (Florida — Miami, the Keys, Tampa Bay, the Space Coast and the theme-park belt), 18–20% in restaurants, $1–2 a drink, $2 a bag for bell staff, $5 a day housekeeping, $3–5 for valet. Breakfast 07:00–10:00, lunch 11:30–14:00, dinner 18:00–22:00; Miami eats late and Key West stops serving early outside Duval Street. Cover shoulders and knees inside churches, greet staff before ordering, keep your voice down in residential streets at night, and expect shops in smaller towns around Miami to close in the early afternoon.

Install the Busch Gardens, LEGOLAND and Kennedy Space Center apps for ticket entry and show times, SunPass or the rental toll pass, Brightline for Miami–Orlando, Uber and Lyft, and a radar app for the afternoon storms. Download an offline map of Miami before you land, and add your transport card or pass to your phone wallet if the local operator supports it.

Walk two or three streets off the main square or monument in Miami and look for a short handwritten menu, a full room of local voices, and prices displayed at the door. A daily menu chalked up at lunchtime is the strongest signal; a laminated menu in five languages with a host outside is the strongest warning.

Eat what Florida grows and lands: the signature rice, stew or grill of the region, whatever the market is selling that week, and the local wine or vermouth by the glass. The most honest versions are in the family-run place near the market of Miami, at lunch, when the daily menu is on.

Breakfast 07:00–10:00, lunch 11:30–14:00, dinner 18:00–22:00; Miami eats late and Key West stops serving early outside Duval Street. Book dinner for anything popular, ask for the bill (it won't arrive unprompted), and split payment is usually fine by card. 18–20% in restaurants, $1–2 a drink, $2 a bag for bell staff, $5 a day housekeeping, $3–5 for valet.

Do a single loop of the historic centre of Miami, stop at its one defining sight, then eat where locals eat near the market. That gives you the character of the place in three or four hours without a ticket queue eating the whole visit.

Most of what makes Miami memorable costs nothing: walking the historic centre and its squares, the market hall, the outside of Art Deco District on Ocean Drive, the churches that ask only for a donation, the parks and gardens, and the viewpoint that looks back over the roofs. Add the seafront promenade and the public beaches — free showers and no sunbed hire needed if you bring a towel. Municipal museums in United States (Florida — Miami, the Keys, Tampa Bay, the Space Coast and the theme-park belt) usually have one free afternoon or evening a week, and many cathedrals are free outside visiting hours if you go to pray rather than to tour — check the times at the door on your first morning.

Free: the highest point of the old town, the bell tower terrace when it's open, and the bridge or promenade that looks back at Miami's skyline. Paid: a rooftop bar or tower ticket — worth it only if you arrive forty minutes before sunset to get the rail. On the coast nearby, a west-facing cove beats any rooftop.

a hire car is essential outside Miami Beach and Key West; the toll roads all use SunPass. Brightline links Miami, Fort Lauderdale, West Palm Beach and Orlando in about three and a half hours, Tampa is 1 h 25 from Orlando on I-4, and Key West is 3 h 30 from Miami on the single-lane US-1 If your 3-day plan is mostly on foot in Miami with one excursion, buy singles or a multi-journey card and skip the tourist pass; if you're crossing the city several times a day or using it with museum entry included, a 48 h pass pays for itself.

Miami is safe by European standards; the real risks are opportunistic. Avoid empty industrial or station peripheries after midnight, unlit parks, and packed nightlife streets where phones disappear. Walk lit main streets, use a licensed taxi or ride-hailing app late at night, and share your route if you're travelling solo.

Buy something made nearby: key lime pie from a Keys bakery, Florida hot sauce, a Kennedy Space Center mission patch, a LEGO set only sold at LEGOLAND, and Cuban coffee from a Calle Ocho roaster. The weekly market in Miami and a workshop with the maker on site beat any airport shop, and you're supporting the local trade rather than an importer.

Keep two indoor blocks in reserve: the main museum or cathedral of Miami, a market hall with food stalls, a long lunch, or a thermal bath or wine cellar in Florida. In extreme heat, invert the day — sights before 11:00, indoors from 14:00 to 18:00, and the evening back outside. December to April is dry, warm and busy. June to September is hot, humid and stormy after 15.00, and hurricane season peaks in September.

Locals go where there's no ticket desk: the residential lanes just outside the walls of Miami early in the morning, the neighbourhood bar with four tables and one dish, the cemetery or convent garden that nobody photographs, and the hill road out of town at dusk. Ask the person serving you coffee where they eat on Sunday — in Florida that question opens more doors than any list.