Dublin

Prioritise Book of Kells and the Long Room, Kilmainham Gaol, Guinness Storehouse Gravity Bar, Dublin Castle and Chester Beatty and St Patrick's Cathedral. What you can skip without regret: the restaurants with photo menus and touts on the main square, any hop-on bus if the centre is walkable, and paid "panoramic" viewpoints when a free one gives the same picture. Dublin is inland, so plan around heritage, food and landscape rather than beaches.

Stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre of Dublin: you walk to the main sights, restaurants stay open late nearby, and you avoid paying for taxis twice a day. Pick the edge of the old town if you want quiet at night, and check the room faces a courtyard rather than a bar street.

Use the scheduled airport bus or regional train for the cheapest transfer into Dublin, an official taxi from the marked rank when you arrive late or with luggage, and ignore anyone offering a private transfer inside the terminal. In Ireland (Republic of Ireland — Dublin, the Wild Atlantic Way, Kerry, Clare, Connemara and Donegal), hire a car for the coast and drive on the left; trains link Dublin, Cork, Galway and Killarney; drive the Ring of Kerry clockwise and Slea Head clockwise too, pay the M50 toll online by 20:00 the next day, and allow for weather cancelling island ferries

2 full days is the honest answer for Dublin: one for the centre on foot, one for its museums and food, and one for a trip into Ireland. Two days works if you only want the highlights; a fourth day is worth it if you want a slow morning and a longer excursion.

Budget €140–220 per person per day mid-range: €90–140 room, €55 food, €35–70 for a day tour, car hire and fuel on top. Accommodation moves the total most: shoulder season in Dublin can be half the July price for the same room. Payment runs on the euro (cards and phone payments work almost everywhere, including rural pubs; keep sterling as well if you cross into Northern Ireland).

Day 1 — the historic core of Dublin on foot, clockwise from the main square, with lunch where you end up rather than walking back. Day 2 — the single biggest sight first thing, then the market and the residential streets around it, and a viewpoint at sunset. Day 3 — one excursion into Ireland booked in advance, back for a late dinner. Group everything by walking distance and never cross Dublin twice in a day.

Anything with timed entry or a small group sells out first: the flagship monument or museum of Dublin, guided tours with fewer than fifteen places, boat and wine experiences in summer, and dinner at well-reviewed restaurants on Friday and Saturday. Book those two to four weeks ahead in high season; everything else can wait until you arrive.

The classics are the same everywhere: unmetered taxis quoting a flat fare, "free" bracelets or flowers, distraction pickpocketing on crowded transport and at photo spots, card machines handed over pre-set to a higher amount or to your home currency, and restaurants without printed prices. Check the meter, always pay in euros, and keep your bag in front of you in queues.

In Ireland (Republic of Ireland — Dublin, the Wild Atlantic Way, Kerry, Clare, Connemara and Donegal), 10–12% in restaurants if service is not included, round up taxi fares, nothing expected at the bar. Breakfast 07:30–10:00, lunch 12:30–14:30, dinner 18:00–21:00 with rural kitchens closing by 21:00; trad sessions start around 21:30. Cover shoulders and knees inside churches, greet staff before ordering, keep your voice down in residential streets at night, and expect shops in smaller towns around Dublin to close in the early afternoon.

Install Google Maps offline for the boreens, Leap Visitor Card for Dublin, Irish Rail and Bus Éireann, eFlow for the M50 toll, Met Éireann for the weather. Download an offline map of Dublin before you land, and add your transport card or pass to your phone wallet if the local operator supports it.

Walk two or three streets off the main square or monument in Dublin and look for a short handwritten menu, a full room of local voices, and prices displayed at the door. A daily menu chalked up at lunchtime is the strongest signal; a laminated menu in five languages with a host outside is the strongest warning.

Eat what Ireland grows and lands: the signature rice, stew or grill of the region, whatever the market is selling that week, and the local wine or vermouth by the glass. The most honest versions are in the family-run place near the market of Dublin, at lunch, when the daily menu is on.

Breakfast 07:30–10:00, lunch 12:30–14:30, dinner 18:00–21:00 with rural kitchens closing by 21:00; trad sessions start around 21:30. Book dinner for anything popular, ask for the bill (it won't arrive unprompted), and split payment is usually fine by card. 10–12% in restaurants if service is not included, round up taxi fares, nothing expected at the bar.

Do a single loop of the historic centre of Dublin, stop at its one defining sight, then eat where locals eat near the market. That gives you the character of the place in three or four hours without a ticket queue eating the whole visit.

Free: the highest point of the old town, the bell tower terrace when it's open, and the bridge or promenade that looks back at Dublin's skyline. Paid: a rooftop bar or tower ticket — worth it only if you arrive forty minutes before sunset to get the rail. Inland, the ridge or castle road above town gives the widest light.

hire a car for the coast and drive on the left; trains link Dublin, Cork, Galway and Killarney; drive the Ring of Kerry clockwise and Slea Head clockwise too, pay the M50 toll online by 20:00 the next day, and allow for weather cancelling island ferries If your 2-day plan is mostly on foot in Dublin with one excursion, buy singles or a multi-journey card and skip the tourist pass; if you're crossing the city several times a day or using it with museum entry included, a 48 h pass pays for itself.

Dublin is safe by European standards; the real risks are opportunistic. Avoid empty industrial or station peripheries after midnight, unlit parks, and packed nightlife streets where phones disappear. Walk lit main streets, use a licensed taxi or ride-hailing app late at night, and share your route if you're travelling solo.

Buy something made nearby: Donegal or Aran hand-knit wool, a Claddagh ring bought in Galway, Burren smokehouse salmon, a bottle from Dingle or Teeling, and Waterford or Jerpoint glass. The weekly market in Dublin and a workshop with the maker on site beat any airport shop, and you're supporting the local trade rather than an importer.

Keep two indoor blocks in reserve: the main museum or cathedral of Dublin, a market hall with food stalls, a long lunch, or a thermal bath or wine cellar in Ireland. In extreme heat, invert the day — sights before 11:00, indoors from 14:00 to 18:00, and the evening back outside.

Locals go where there's no ticket desk: the residential lanes just outside the walls of Dublin early in the morning, the neighbourhood bar with four tables and one dish, the cemetery or convent garden that nobody photographs, and the hill road out of town at dusk. Ask the person serving you coffee where they eat on Sunday — in Ireland that question opens more doors than any list.