Dublin

Start with Book of Kells and the Long Room, Kilmainham Gaol, Guinness Storehouse Gravity Bar, Dublin Castle and Chester Beatty and St Patrick's Cathedral. Dublin is inland, so build the plan around heritage, food and landscape. Three days — the centre on foot, the flagship sight plus market, one booked excursion into Ireland. Five days — add a second excursion and a slow day for museums, food and a local festival if the dates line up. Seven days — add two longer trips further into Ireland and a rest day. Group each day by walking distance and never cross Dublin twice in one day.

Ireland is in the EU but outside Schengen, so a Schengen visa does not cover it. EU, EEA, UK, US, Canadian and Australian visitors enter visa-free (up to 90 days for most, longer under the Common Travel Area for UK nationals) with a passport valid for the stay. No ETIAS or vaccinations apply. Requirements change: confirm against your own government's travel advice and the official immigration site before you book.

Dublin is safe for visitors by the standards of Ireland (Republic of Ireland — Dublin, the Wild Atlantic Way, Kerry, Clare, Connemara and Donegal): violent crime is rare and the real risk is opportunistic — pickpocketing on crowded transport, at photo spots and in busy markets, plus unmetered taxis and card machines pre-set to a higher amount or your home currency. Avoid deserted station areas and unlit outskirts late at night, use the official taxi rank or a ride-hailing app after dark, keep your bag in front of you in queues, photograph your passport, and check your own foreign-office travel advice page before departure. Travel insurance with medical cover is worth it.

Walk the centre of Dublin and use public transport for anything further out; a hire car only pays off for the countryside of Ireland. In Ireland (Republic of Ireland — Dublin, the Wild Atlantic Way, Kerry, Clare, Connemara and Donegal), hire a car for the coast and drive on the left; trains link Dublin, Cork, Galway and Killarney; drive the Ring of Kerry clockwise and Slea Head clockwise too, pay the M50 toll online by 20:00 the next day, and allow for weather cancelling island ferries For accommodation, stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre for a first visit: you walk to the sights and save two taxis a day. The edge of the old town is the value option — a few minutes further out, cheaper and quieter at night — and a room over a courtyard beats one over a bar street.

Prioritise Book of Kells and the Long Room, Kilmainham Gaol, Guinness Storehouse Gravity Bar, Dublin Castle and Chester Beatty and St Patrick's Cathedral. What you can skip without regret: the restaurants with photo menus and touts on the main square, any hop-on bus if the centre is walkable, and paid "panoramic" viewpoints when a free one gives the same picture. Dublin is inland, so plan around heritage, food and landscape rather than beaches.

Use the scheduled airport bus or regional train for the cheapest transfer into Dublin, an official taxi from the marked rank when you arrive late or with luggage, and ignore anyone offering a private transfer inside the terminal. In Ireland (Republic of Ireland — Dublin, the Wild Atlantic Way, Kerry, Clare, Connemara and Donegal), hire a car for the coast and drive on the left; trains link Dublin, Cork, Galway and Killarney; drive the Ring of Kerry clockwise and Slea Head clockwise too, pay the M50 toll online by 20:00 the next day, and allow for weather cancelling island ferries

Budget €140–220 per person per day mid-range: €90–140 room, €55 food, €35–70 for a day tour, car hire and fuel on top. Accommodation moves the total most: shoulder season in Dublin can be half the July price for the same room. Payment runs on the euro (cards and phone payments work almost everywhere, including rural pubs; keep sterling as well if you cross into Northern Ireland).

Day 1 — the historic core of Dublin on foot, clockwise from the main square, with lunch where you end up rather than walking back. Day 2 — the single biggest sight first thing, then the market and the residential streets around it, and a viewpoint at sunset. Day 3 — one excursion into Ireland booked in advance, back for a late dinner. Group everything by walking distance and never cross Dublin twice in a day.

The classics are the same everywhere: unmetered taxis quoting a flat fare, "free" bracelets or flowers, distraction pickpocketing on crowded transport and at photo spots, card machines handed over pre-set to a higher amount or to your home currency, and restaurants without printed prices. Check the meter, always pay in euros, and keep your bag in front of you in queues.

In Ireland (Republic of Ireland — Dublin, the Wild Atlantic Way, Kerry, Clare, Connemara and Donegal), 10–12% in restaurants if service is not included, round up taxi fares, nothing expected at the bar. Breakfast 07:30–10:00, lunch 12:30–14:30, dinner 18:00–21:00 with rural kitchens closing by 21:00; trad sessions start around 21:30. Cover shoulders and knees inside churches, greet staff before ordering, keep your voice down in residential streets at night, and expect shops in smaller towns around Dublin to close in the early afternoon.

Most of what makes Dublin memorable costs nothing: walking the historic centre and its squares, the market hall, the outside of Book of Kells and the Long Room, the churches that ask only for a donation, the parks and gardens, and the viewpoint that looks back over the roofs. Add a stretch of the old walls, the riverside or greenway path, and the ridge road above town at sunset. Municipal museums in Ireland (Republic of Ireland — Dublin, the Wild Atlantic Way, Kerry, Clare, Connemara and Donegal) usually have one free afternoon or evening a week, and many cathedrals are free outside visiting hours if you go to pray rather than to tour — check the times at the door on your first morning.

hire a car for the coast and drive on the left; trains link Dublin, Cork, Galway and Killarney; drive the Ring of Kerry clockwise and Slea Head clockwise too, pay the M50 toll online by 20:00 the next day, and allow for weather cancelling island ferries If your 2-day plan is mostly on foot in Dublin with one excursion, buy singles or a multi-journey card and skip the tourist pass; if you're crossing the city several times a day or using it with museum entry included, a 48 h pass pays for itself.

Locals go where there's no ticket desk: the residential lanes just outside the walls of Dublin early in the morning, the neighbourhood bar with four tables and one dish, the cemetery or convent garden that nobody photographs, and the hill road out of town at dusk. Ask the person serving you coffee where they eat on Sunday — in Ireland that question opens more doors than any list.