La Paz

Start with Malecón and the sculpture walk, Playa Balandra's mushroom rock, Isla Espíritu Santo and Museo de la Ballena. Keep one morning for the coast near La Paz. Three days — the centre on foot, the flagship sight plus market, one booked excursion into Baja California & Los Cabos. Five days — add a second excursion and a slow day for museums, food and a local festival if the dates line up. Seven days — add two longer trips further into Baja California & Los Cabos and a rest day. Group each day by walking distance and never cross La Paz twice in one day.

Mexico needs no tourist visa for EU, UK, US, Canadian, Australian and most South American passports for stays up to 180 days; you receive an electronic entry record (FMM) rather than a stamped card at major airports. Bring a passport valid for the whole trip, an onward ticket and an address for the immigration form. No vaccinations are mandatory, though hepatitis A and typhoid cover is commonly advised, plus mosquito precautions on the coast. Requirements change: confirm against your own government's travel advice and the official immigration site before you book.

La Paz is safe for visitors by the standards of Mexico (Baja California and Baja California Sur): violent crime is rare and the real risk is opportunistic — pickpocketing on crowded transport, at photo spots and in busy markets, plus unmetered taxis and card machines pre-set to a higher amount or your home currency. Avoid deserted station areas and unlit outskirts late at night, use the official taxi rank or a ride-hailing app after dark, keep your bag in front of you in queues, photograph your passport, and check your own foreign-office travel advice page before departure. Travel insurance with medical cover is worth it.

Walk the centre of La Paz and use public transport for anything further out; a hire car only pays off for the countryside of Baja California & Los Cabos. In Mexico (Baja California and Baja California Sur), a hire car with full Mexican liability insurance is the only realistic way to see the peninsula; the Ruta del Desierto bus links the two capes every 30 minutes, and Aguila coaches run La Paz–Loreto — book whale and island trips with permit-holding operators only For accommodation, stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre for a first visit: you walk to the sights and save two taxis a day. The edge of the old town is the value option — a few minutes further out, cheaper and quieter at night — and a room over a courtyard beats one over a bar street.

Prioritise Malecón and the sculpture walk, Playa Balandra's mushroom rock, Isla Espíritu Santo and Museo de la Ballena. What you can skip without regret: the restaurants with photo menus and touts on the main square, any hop-on bus if the centre is walkable, and paid "panoramic" viewpoints when a free one gives the same picture. You also have coastline within reach of La Paz, so keep one morning free for a beach or a coastal walk.

Use the scheduled airport bus or regional train for the cheapest transfer into La Paz, an official taxi from the marked rank when you arrive late or with luggage, and ignore anyone offering a private transfer inside the terminal. In Mexico (Baja California and Baja California Sur), a hire car with full Mexican liability insurance is the only realistic way to see the peninsula; the Ruta del Desierto bus links the two capes every 30 minutes, and Aguila coaches run La Paz–Loreto — book whale and island trips with permit-holding operators only

Budget $130–200 per person per day mid-range: $50–65 food, $35 car hire and fuel, $45–90 excursions and marine-park fees. Accommodation moves the total most: shoulder season in La Paz can be half the July price for the same room. Payment runs on the Mexican peso (cards in Los Cabos hotels and restaurants; pesos for fuel, park fees, pangas and beach palapas — dollar prices are quoted but pay in pesos).

Day 1 — the historic core of La Paz on foot, clockwise from the main square, with lunch where you end up rather than walking back. Day 2 — the single biggest sight first thing, then the market and the residential streets around it, and a viewpoint at sunset. Day 3 — one excursion into Baja California & Los Cabos booked in advance, back for a late dinner. Group everything by walking distance and never cross La Paz twice in a day.

The classics are the same everywhere: unmetered taxis quoting a flat fare, "free" bracelets or flowers, distraction pickpocketing on crowded transport and at photo spots, card machines handed over pre-set to a higher amount or to your home currency, and restaurants without printed prices. Check the meter, always pay in local currency, and keep your bag in front of you in queues.

In Mexico (Baja California and Baja California Sur), 10–15% in restaurants, $10–20 a day for dive and whale crews, 20–50 pesos for bag handling. Breakfast until 11:00, lunch 14:00–16:00, dinner from 19:00; beach kitchens close by sunset, taquerías run late. Cover shoulders and knees inside churches, greet staff before ordering, keep your voice down in residential streets at night, and expect shops in smaller towns around La Paz to close in the early afternoon.

Most of what makes La Paz memorable costs nothing: walking the historic centre and its squares, the market hall, the outside of Malecón and the sculpture walk, the churches that ask only for a donation, the parks and gardens, and the viewpoint that looks back over the roofs. Add the seafront promenade and the public beaches — free showers and no sunbed hire needed if you bring a towel. Municipal museums in Mexico (Baja California and Baja California Sur) usually have one free afternoon or evening a week, and many cathedrals are free outside visiting hours if you go to pray rather than to tour — check the times at the door on your first morning.

a hire car with full Mexican liability insurance is the only realistic way to see the peninsula; the Ruta del Desierto bus links the two capes every 30 minutes, and Aguila coaches run La Paz–Loreto — book whale and island trips with permit-holding operators only If your 2-day plan is mostly on foot in La Paz with one excursion, buy singles or a multi-journey card and skip the tourist pass; if you're crossing the city several times a day or using it with museum entry included, a 48 h pass pays for itself.

Locals go where there's no ticket desk: the residential lanes just outside the walls of La Paz early in the morning, the neighbourhood bar with four tables and one dish, the cemetery or convent garden that nobody photographs, and the hill road out of town at dusk. Ask the person serving you coffee where they eat on Sunday — in Baja California & Los Cabos that question opens more doors than any list.