New Yorkwhat to see, tours and where to stay

Start with Midtown Manhattan, Downtown & Financial District, Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island, Central Park & the Upper Sides and Greenwich Village & SoHo. Keep one morning for the coast near New York. Three days — the centre on foot, the flagship sight plus market, one booked excursion into New York. Five days — add a second excursion and a slow day for museums, food and a local festival if the dates line up. Seven days — add two longer trips further into New York and a rest day. Group each day by walking distance and never cross New York twice in one day.

The United States requires either an ESTA under the Visa Waiver Programme — applied for online at least 72 hours before departure, valid two years, for EU, UK, Australian, Japanese and Chilean passports among others — or a B1/B2 visa with an embassy interview for everyone else. Your passport must be machine-readable and valid for the stay, and travellers who have visited certain countries lose ESTA eligibility. No vaccinations are required. Requirements change: confirm against your own government's travel advice and the official immigration site before you book.

New York is safe for visitors by the standards of United States (New York State — the five boroughs and Long Island): violent crime is rare and the real risk is opportunistic — pickpocketing on crowded transport, at photo spots and in busy markets, plus unmetered taxis and card machines pre-set to a higher amount or your home currency. Avoid deserted station areas and unlit outskirts late at night, use the official taxi rank or a ride-hailing app after dark, keep your bag in front of you in queues, photograph your passport, and check your own foreign-office travel advice page before departure. Travel insurance with medical cover is worth it.

Walk the centre of New York and use public transport for anything further out; a hire car only pays off for the countryside of New York. In United States (New York State — the five boroughs and Long Island), the subway runs 24 hours and OMNY caps your fare after twelve rides in a week; check the uptown/downtown entrance before you tap, use crosstown buses where the lines do not go, take the AirTrain from JFK or Newark, and the LIRR from Penn or Grand Central for the beaches and the Hamptons For accommodation, stay inside or immediately beside the historic centre for a first visit: you walk to the sights and save two taxis a day. The edge of the old town is the value option — a few minutes further out, cheaper and quieter at night — and a room over a courtyard beats one over a bar street.

Prioritise Midtown Manhattan, Downtown & Financial District, Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island, Central Park & the Upper Sides and Greenwich Village & SoHo. What you can skip without regret: the restaurants with photo menus and touts on the main square, any hop-on bus if the centre is walkable, and paid "panoramic" viewpoints when a free one gives the same picture. You also have coastline within reach of New York, so keep one morning free for a beach or a coastal walk.

Use the scheduled airport bus or regional train for the cheapest transfer into New York, an official taxi from the marked rank when you arrive late or with luggage, and ignore anyone offering a private transfer inside the terminal. In United States (New York State — the five boroughs and Long Island), the subway runs 24 hours and OMNY caps your fare after twelve rides in a week; check the uptown/downtown entrance before you tap, use crosstown buses where the lines do not go, take the AirTrain from JFK or Newark, and the LIRR from Penn or Grand Central for the beaches and the Hamptons

Budget $230–360 per person per day mid-range: $180–260 room, $80 food, $50–120 for one observatory, museum or show. Accommodation moves the total most: shoulder season in New York can be half the July price for the same room. Payment runs on the US dollar (contactless cards and phones work everywhere, including the subway via OMNY; carry a few dollars for tips and the handful of cash-only institutions such as Peter Luger).

Day 1 — the historic core of New York on foot, clockwise from the main square, with lunch where you end up rather than walking back. Day 2 — the single biggest sight first thing, then the market and the residential streets around it, and a viewpoint at sunset. Day 3 — one excursion into New York booked in advance, back for a late dinner. Group everything by walking distance and never cross New York twice in a day.

The classics are the same everywhere: unmetered taxis quoting a flat fare, "free" bracelets or flowers, distraction pickpocketing on crowded transport and at photo spots, card machines handed over pre-set to a higher amount or to your home currency, and restaurants without printed prices. Check the meter, always pay in local currency, and keep your bag in front of you in queues.

In United States (New York State — the five boroughs and Long Island), 18–20% in restaurants, $1–2 a drink at the bar, 15–20% for taxis, $2 a bag for porters, $5 a day housekeeping. Breakfast from 07:00 and brunch until 15:00 at weekends, lunch 12:00–15:00, dinner 18:00–22:30 with the best tables released 28–30 days ahead on Resy and OpenTable. Cover shoulders and knees inside churches, greet staff before ordering, keep your voice down in residential streets at night, and expect shops in smaller towns around New York to close in the early afternoon.

Breakfast from 07:00 and brunch until 15:00 at weekends, lunch 12:00–15:00, dinner 18:00–22:30 with the best tables released 28–30 days ahead on Resy and OpenTable. Book dinner for anything popular, ask for the bill (it won't arrive unprompted), and split payment is usually fine by card. 18–20% in restaurants, $1–2 a drink at the bar, 15–20% for taxis, $2 a bag for porters, $5 a day housekeeping.

Most of what makes New York memorable costs nothing: walking the historic centre and its squares, the market hall, the outside of Midtown Manhattan, the churches that ask only for a donation, the parks and gardens, and the viewpoint that looks back over the roofs. Add the seafront promenade and the public beaches — free showers and no sunbed hire needed if you bring a towel. Municipal museums in United States (New York State — the five boroughs and Long Island) usually have one free afternoon or evening a week, and many cathedrals are free outside visiting hours if you go to pray rather than to tour — check the times at the door on your first morning.

the subway runs 24 hours and OMNY caps your fare after twelve rides in a week; check the uptown/downtown entrance before you tap, use crosstown buses where the lines do not go, take the AirTrain from JFK or Newark, and the LIRR from Penn or Grand Central for the beaches and the Hamptons If your 5-day plan is mostly on foot in New York with one excursion, buy singles or a multi-journey card and skip the tourist pass; if you're crossing the city several times a day or using it with museum entry included, a 48 h pass pays for itself.

Buy something made nearby: a print from the Met or MoMA store, Zabar's coffee and Russ & Daughters preserves, a Strand tote and a second-hand book, and a Yankees or Knicks cap bought at the ground rather than in Times Square. The weekly market in New York and a workshop with the maker on site beat any airport shop, and you're supporting the local trade rather than an importer.

Locals go where there's no ticket desk: the residential lanes just outside the walls of New York early in the morning, the neighbourhood bar with four tables and one dish, the cemetery or convent garden that nobody photographs, and the hill road out of town at dusk. Ask the person serving you coffee where they eat on Sunday — in New York that question opens more doors than any list.