3 days in Amalfi Coast

Start early, before the coaches. Take coffee and pastry standing at a counter in the centre of Amalfi Coast rather than at a terrace on the main square — it is cheaper, faster and it is what locals actually do. Use the stop to pick up a paper map or check today's opening hours, which shift on Mondays and feast days.

TipCash for small bars; many still have a minimum for cards.

Walk the historic centre of Amalfi Coast as one loop rather than doubling back: main street, civic square, the older lanes behind it, then out to the edge of the old walls or the waterfront. Everything in a European old town of this size is within twenty minutes on foot, so the loop is about sequence, not distance.

TipGo anticlockwise from the main square to keep the sun behind you for photographs.

The principal church is normally the oldest continuously used building in Amalfi Coast and the single best half-hour of the day. Mornings are the reliable slot: most close for several hours at midday and some close entirely to visitors during Mass.

TipFull hours, dress code and free-entry windows are on our churches page for Amalfi Coast.

One collection, not three — the archaeology or fine-arts museum that explains why Amalfi Coast exists where it does. It also buys you air conditioning or shelter at the hottest, or wettest, part of the day.

TipLast admission is usually 30–45 minutes before closing.

Lunch is the main meal here, and the set menu at midday is the best value you will find all day. Walk two or three streets off the monument you have just visited: prices drop and the cooking gets more local with every corner.

TipKitchens often stop at 15:30 — do not drift past 14:30.

The hottest hours are for the coast, not for monuments. Head to the nearest beach or cove to Amalfi Coast for a swim and a long, unstructured afternoon — this is the part of the day travellers remember, and it costs nothing.

TipShade disappears after 16:00 on west-facing beaches; take a parasol or pick a pine-backed cove.

Every town has one place where the light lands last — a bell tower, castle, sea wall or hillside terrace. Be there forty minutes before sunset in Amalfi Coast, not at sunset, and you get the whole sequence rather than the end of it.

TipCheck today's sunset time; in summer it can be after 21:30 in southern Europe.

Dinner is late and the streets fill again after the heat drops. Eat in the old town of Amalfi Coast, then walk the main street once more — the same loop as this morning reads completely differently lit.

TipBook anything with a terrace and a view; walk in anywhere else.

Day two leaves Amalfi Coast behind. Boat trips, kayak outings and coastal excursions all run best in the morning, when the water is flat and the light is clean; afternoon departures are windier and busier.

TipPre-book the morning slot the night before at the latest — the early boats and tours sell out first.

Whatever shape it takes — catamaran, small boat, snorkelling or a sea-kayak morning — a few hours offshore is the single best half-day near Amalfi Coast, and it reaches coves that no road serves.

TipCancellation is normally free up to 24 h before, so booking early costs nothing.

Grilled fish, rice or whatever came in this morning, eaten at a harbour a short drive from Amalfi Coast. Order the daily catch by weight and share it — that is how the table next to you is doing it.

Break the return with one small place near Amalfi Coast — a hilltop village, a monastery, a market town. Ninety minutes is enough: one street, one church, one coffee.

TipCheck the return timetable before you stop if you are on public transport.

Back in Amalfi Coast with time to spare: buy oil, cheese, wine or preserves where the locals shop rather than at an airport, then eat somewhere with a terrace and no rush.

TipFood markets shut early — most are done by 14:00, so this is an evening-shop, not a market visit.

Day three is the one that makes a trip feel earned. Start in the covered or street market of Amalfi Coast between 09:00 and 11:00, when the stalls are full and the bar inside is serving breakfast to the traders.

TipMost markets close by 14:00 and many do not open on Sundays or Mondays.

A guided tasting walk through Amalfi Coast is the fastest way to understand a local kitchen: three or four stops, the dishes explained, and an insider list of places to return to on your own.

TipBook a morning slot — evening food tours skip the market and the producers.

Now do what day-trippers never reach in Amalfi Coast: the smaller chapels, the house museum, the artisan workshops, the modern quarter, the cemetery or the old industrial edge. Quieter, cheaper and often more memorable than the headline monument.

TipSmall sites keep short and irregular hours — check two options so one is open.

A final swim near Amalfi Coast at the end of the afternoon, when the beach has emptied and the sea is at its warmest, then dry off and watch the light go from the sea wall.

Spend on the final meal in Amalfi Coast: a tasting menu, a rice or fish dish for two, or the local speciality you have been reading about all week — booked in advance, eaten without watching the clock.

TipReserve two or three days ahead for the best-known kitchens in high season.